ponder craft & design
wood
materials of the trade
consider...
consider...
Do you know how to care for your wood product? Certain materials need to be stored away from sunlight or water for longevity.
Where will the product be used and kept in your home?
What are you using your wood product for? Your choice of stain, polish, or lack thereof should support both the piece's function and the type of wood used. For example, does your wood product need to be food safe? Weather durable? Scratch resistant? Emphasize shine?
Are all sides smoothly finished, without scratches, bumps, marks, or foreign matter?
Does the hardware used fit seamlessly and operate smoothly with the product?
Have you considered the relationship between the piece's durability, functionality, and aesthetics?
Is the wood itself of furniture quality? It should be free of deformations, unless intended by the artist. Any knots, warping, or cracks, etc. should not affect the work’s structural or functional quality.
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​​​Are there screws, nails, or pencil marks to be removed or concealed unless otherwise intended for the design?
Do food-serving items or children’s toys have non-toxic finishes? All toys must meet Health Canada material, production, packaging, and labelling requirements such as age limits for choking hazards.
Was the wood ethically sourced or harvested via sustainable means? In BC, it is illegal to cut down arbutus trees for commercial use, and arbutus materials should only be produced from timber that has been scavenged, fallen, or otherwise removed from the tree by natural causes.
...ask the artist about
about the material
Different types of wood have different qualities. This means certain woods are better suited for certain uses. Access or availability will also affect whether an artist decides to work with a particular type of wood.
identifying features
Cherry is a light shade of pink-brown when freshly cut, but darkens into a deeper golden brown once exposed to sunlight. It has a close grain that is either straight or just slightly wavy, consisting of a fine to medium texture.
properties
Cherry is easy to work with, whether by machine or hand tools. It also glues, turns, and finishes with notable ease. However, it is difficult to stain due to its fine and close grain, sometimes resulting in blotchy patches.
common uses
Products made out of cherry are often functional and found in the home, including cabinetry, fine furniture, or flooring, as well as specialty wood items such as bowls, platters, and jewellery boxes.
arbutus
identifying features
Also known as madrone, arbutus is appreciated for its richness of grain, variance, and beautiful finishes. It is found in a range of colours from pale white to dark brown, with shades of pinks, browns, and reds in between. Arbutus is also known for its burl veneer, the closely packed knots and swirled grain that give its products a unique pattern.
properties
Arbutus trees are marked as a rare and endangered species in BC, so make sure your product was made from ethically sourced wood. Considered one of the best exotic hardwoods in the world, arbutus trees grow from Northern California to Southern BC, specifically the Gulf Islands. They generally grow within 8 km of the ocean, clinging to coasts and exposed rocky bluffs. Arbutus trees can survive in harsh climates, from wet and windy winters to summer droughts, making them very suited to Vancouver's weather. Arbutus is a very heavy, hard, and brittle wood, and it is a very difficult wood to dry, often warping, twisting, or cracking upon drying. However, it is an excellent turning wood, also taking well to stains and finishes. Its workability is similar to hard maple, able to withstand both hand tools and machines.
common uses
Because of its rarity and the legalities of sourcing the wood for artisanal and commercial use, pieces made from arbutus are typically smaller items. Examples include salad utensils, jewellery, wooden sculptures, and other art pieces. Arbutus makes for great eco-friendly products, as it is typically harvested from fallen trees and dead branches.
elm
identifying features
Elm trees can grow to great heights, having long, straight trunks. They make up many of the ornamental, garden, and park trees seen across North America, Europe, and the Southern Hemisphere.
properties
Originating in central Asia, elm trees can be quite large in size, but many die from Dutch elm disease before reaching their full growth. They are valued for their interlocking grain, making their wood highly pliable and resistant to splitting. Additionally, elm is resistant to decay when permanently wet.
common uses
Since elm bends well, their wood is often used for wagon wheel hubs and archery bows, as well as chair seats and coffins. Their long, straight trunks and resistance to decay make them ideal for keels in ship construction. Historically, the body of Japanese taiko drums were often cut from wood of old elm trees, their split-resistant wood optimal for nailing skins onto.
cherry
maple
identifying features
Hard maples are a light red-brown colour with a straight grain, sometimes with burls or defects. Soft maple's colour ranges from tan to grey, often with extreme variation within a single piece of wood.
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properties
Generally, maple is a solid wood-working material. While workable with machine and hand tools, it does tend to burn if machined with high-speed cutters. Maple is often finished with a clear coat, as staining is difficult with its straight, tight grain. As with cherry, stains leave a blotchy finish. North American maple is typically divided into two categories: hard and soft. Hard maple, or sugar maple, is heavy, strong, and stiff, with a uniform texture allowing it to be sanded to a beautiful finish. Hard maple is also resistant to abrasion and shock. Soft maples, including silver, red maple, and boxelder, are much like hard maples but lighter in density. As far as wood, soft maple is still quite hard, its name simply referring to its softness in comparison to hard maple.
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common uses
Hard maple can be used in flooring, musical instruments, and smaller items such as cutting boards, baseball bats, and novelty items. Hard maple is especially good for cutting boards, as its fine grain has a capillary nature that draws fluids downward, trapping bacteria which is then killed off as the board dries. Softer wood has larger grain making it more prone to splitting and forming grooves in which bacteria can fester over repeated use. Instead, soft maple is better used for boxes, crates, musical instruments, and novelty items.
plum
identifying features
Plum has a fine texture with a close grain, often with swirled or irregular patterns. It can be found in a wide range of colours, exhibiting streaks of pink, orange, red, purple, olive, and grey mixed into its base of yellow-brown heartwood.
properties
Knots and other defects are a common attribute, due to the plum tree's small size. Though related to cherry, plum tends to be heavier, harder, and much scarcer. It is a very hard wood, well suited for northern Canadian conditions. Plum wood glues, turns, and finishes well, but it requires a more skilled woodworker to carefully manoeuvre around knots and defects.
common uses
Plum items found around the home include smaller, more decorative products, a result of the plum tree's small trunk size. Some examples include turned bowls, musical instruments, utensil handles, and inlay in furnishings such as cabinetry and tables.
red alder
identifying features
Red alder is the most commonly found wood in the Pacific Northwest. It varies in colour from a light tan to a reddish brown and usually has a fine, straight grain.
properties
Red alder is known for being easy to work with, whether by machine or hand tools. It is also glues, stains, and finishes well, making it a popular wood choice.
common uses
Red alder can be used to make furniture, cabinetry, millwork, plywood, and musical instruments. It is a very important commercial lumber.
walnut
identifying features
Walnut is the only North American wood that has a rich, dark-coloured grain. While usually straight, walnut grain can sometimes curl with burls and other defects.
properties
Walnut is easy to work with using machine or hand tools, producing crisp details in finished pieces, a great quality for inlay. It is a popular material for fine furniture, as it does not damage easily and rarely has sap pockets (which can diminish a work by leaving behind blemishes), while its dark wood hides any scratches. Walnut also takes well to fasteners and glue. All these reasons make walnut a very reliable wood, favoured among woodworkers.
common uses
The workability and durability of walnut makes it great for furniture, cabinetry, and interior panelling, as well as novelty items.
yew
identifying features
Yew is a darker heartwood, ranging from orange-brown to purple and magenta hues that darken further with age. It has a thin, scaly, brown bark, with an off-white sapwood layer. Yew is a straight-grained wood, with a fine, uniform texture.
properties
Yews are a small to medium-sized evergreen species, and there is little to no concern for endangerment, as the population is steadily growing. Found in Southern BC, yews are shade tolerant, typically growing along streams in drier environments. They are closed-pored with great elasticity, and one of the hardest of the softwoods. Yew is very easy to work with, as it also glues, finishes, and turns well.
common uses
Due to its elasticity, yew is often used in items that are springy, such as archery bows or musical instruments such as the lute. Traditionally, Indigenous peoples of North America used it for bows and canoe paddles, while in Japan it has been used for decorative purposes.
finishes
Food Safe: While all finishes work to protect and enrich the wood, only some are food safe. Such finishes do wear off from repeated use, but remain safe to ingest. Oil is the preferred food safe finish, and wood gladly soaks it up. It simultaneously enhances the wood's natural grain while removing any scratches that have appeared during use. Apply frequently to prevent the wood from drying out and cracking with constant washing.
Rub-in Oils: These are reactive, drying finishes, changing chemically when they cure to leave behind a less dissolvable material. Tung and linseed oils react with oxygen but don’t form a film. Oils exaggerate the natural patina of the wood, giving a satin effect. This finish is best for pieces that endure minimal wear or are easily re-oiled, as the oil sits in the wood rather than on its surface.
Walnut Oil: Found at most grocery stores, it is best kept in the fridge to ensure freshness as it is a completely natural finish. Walnut oil is a preferred choice for wood utensils and cutting boards as it has virtually no smell and will not affect the taste of your food. It can be applied via brush, cloth, steel wool, or even your fingers, absorbing well and drying after application. Since it comes from a nut, it is NOT to be used by those with nut allergies.
Mineral Oil: It has no smell, drying after application. While cheaper than walnut oil, it is a petroleum by-product. It occurs naturally, but it is harvested through the oil industry. Thus, it is not the most ethical material, as its recovery process is harmful to the Earth's biosphere and ecosystems. Mineral oil can be purchased at most pharmacies.
Tung Oil: Popular as an environmentally friendly finish, it is comprised of all natural materials. Since it is very thick, it is often cut with citrus to aid in application. Tung oil has a slight golden tint, does not darken with age, and cures to a satin "wetted wood" or plastic look when applied in many fine layers. It has excellent penetrating power and adheres to porous materials, so it applies well to softer woods. This makes it more resistant to water compared to other pure oil finishes, but it is still not ideal protection against water vapour and scratches. It is often applied to wood floors, as it is the only drying oil to completely polymerize, or harden, producing a hard, easily repairable finish. Be mindful when purchasing tung oil, as it is often falsely advertised. Pure tung oil will be clearly noted as such, but always check the ingredients—you are looking to avoid added synthetic chemical driers or solvents. Since it is produced by pressing the seed of tung tree nuts, those with nut allergies should use with caution.
Linseed/Flaxseed Oil: These oils are food safe and are known to have nutritional benefits as a supplement. They darken with age, drying slowly with little shrinkage, but never fully hardens. Linseed and flaxseed oils seep into the wood’s pores, rather than act as a surface varnish, further enhancing the grain of the wood. While not protective against water or scratches, its seeping nature helps prevents denting by filling the pores within the wood. Linseed and flax oils range from a clear to yellowish finish, therefore, avoid staining a paler or lighter wood to prevent it from turning yellow over time. These oils are less common today, with the advancement of synthetic resins that resist this yellowing. As with all natural oils, it is important to be aware of any allergies, especially when applying such oils to items in the kitchen.
Coconut Oil: An easily accessible and natural, food safe oil. However, because it never fully cures, it has the potential to go rancid in hot climates. That said, it is still a better option than vegetable oils, which go rancid in any climate.
Beeswax: This is an evaporative finish, leaving behind a soft and smooth film or wax residue. Wax is typically mixed with mineral or walnut oil to create a tougher finish than just a pure oil. It leaves behind a soft, smooth texture when applied to wood. Beeswax also helps wood become more water-resistant, but not waterproof. It is applied to utensils, bowls, and cutting boards when the wax is in a warm state. It is important not to use wax finishes on meat cutting boards, as the wax poses difficulty when cleaning off any bacteria and residue from the raw meat.
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Oil-Varnish Blends: These blends combine the ease of rub-in oils with the durability of added resin. However, though better than pure oils, they are still not ideal for high-wear objects. While they take on similar properties to their base oil, these are not food-safe finishes. Their hybrid composition requires careful attention to their ingredients. Blends have a wider range of sheens and colours than rub-in oils, soaking into the wood and giving a natural appeal to the product.
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Varnish: These finishes are favoured for their durability and toughness, making them ideal for exterior wood surfaces (deck furniture) and high-wear pieces (cabinetry). Applied with a brush or simply wiped on, sheens range from satin to glossy. Their ability to build up layers of varnish make them more durable, as well as give a more polished, plastic-like appearance. While varnishes do require more care than rub-in oils, they truly protect your wood. Long-oil varnishes have a higher ratio of oil to resin and are softer with more elasticity—they are good for environments with lots of moisture. Medium to short-oil varnishes, on the other hand, have a higher concentration of resins and cure to a harder varnish, making them good for tabletops and floors.
techniques
Buffing: Woods with bigger pores, such as walnut, may need to be buffed. The finish can sink into its pores, creating an uneven surface which can prevent a smooth-as-glass effect. After the wood is filled and finished, it needs a final buff to restore its glossy finish—typically a fine sandpaper and a buffing wheel are used. This technique is perfect for fine woodworking to show off detail. However, it is best avoided with outdoor pieces that will be weathered by nature, irregular works that are hard to level, or very light woods such as maple.
Carving: A method of woodworking that involves using a tool such as a special knife or chisel to create a wooden sculpture or ornament. Carving allows for intricate details, and some pieces take years to complete.
Kerf-Cutting: A method of bending wood by making many kerf cuts, or cuts the width of a saw blade, along a piece of wood. Once enough cuts have been made, the wood should be able to bend the same way a straw would bend.
Lathe: A lathe is a machine used to shape wood by a rotating drive that turns the wood against a cutting tool of choice. The piece should be evenly turned, well balanced, and of consistent proportions.
Levelling/Filling: The trick is to fill the wood surface BEFORE you apply any finish. An oil-based filler is used for naturally coloured woods, a stained filler to match a specific colour, or a clear filler for multi-coloured woods. Then it needs to be levelled with fine-grit sandpaper to remove drips, dust, etc.
Steam Bending: When strips of wood are heated in a steam box, the heat and moisture making the wood pliable. It is then bent around a former, which is clamped in place for drying in order to create the desired shape.
for reference
Breaking the Edge: This is the process of sanding down a sharp edge so that it is smooth and slightly rounded.
Burl Wood: Burl wood is highly prized among wood collectors and is much scarcer and more expensive than normal wood. Burl wood is considered to be a gem of the forest and occurs when a tree grain grows in a deformed way, resulting in a unique pattern.
Finishing: The process of applying a finish to the wooden piece, such as an oil or varnish, to protect the wood from drying out or cracking.
Natural or Live Edge: This is when the natural edge of the wood is incorporated into the finished piece.
Spalted Wood: Spalted wood is any form of discolouration caused by fungus. It is primarily found in dead trees but can also occur in living or distressed trees. Although this can cause weight and strength loss in the infected wood, its effect of unique colour and patterns is highly sought after. Pale hardwoods—maple, birch, beech, aspen, etc—are most commonly affected by spalting.
Staining: A toner, gel stain, or pre-conditioner may be necessary to prevent blotches and ensure an even stain, especially if the wood has a straight and tight grain such as maple.